TECHNICAL EXCELLENCE

Installation tips for RTS
Posted By: j993 on Wednesday, 4 November 1998, at 6:47 a.m
And followup Posted by Martin on Wednesday, 4 November 1998, at 9:41 a.m.

Remove stock hardware:

1) Remove the two plastic shims at the top of the 'A' pillar using an app. sized allen head wrench. You must pull back the rubber weatherstrip (the part not riveted to the body) to expose 4 bolts (2 on each side of the car) holding the plastic shims to the 'A'pillar. You cannot completely remove the weatherstriping to access this area. Use one hand to pull back on the rubber to expose the bolts which are almost entirely covered under the rubber. This is the most difficult part of the job.

2) Remove the 4 bolts and pry/slide out the underlying plastic shims from underneath the weatherstripping. Save the bolts and the shims.

3) Use one of the plastic shims to carefully pry (by hand) out the small painted trim pieces at the base of each 'C' pillar. This part is held in place by two friction pins which are in turn inserted into two hollow plastic bolts. It's not hard to do but they are a bit stubborn the first time. Patience again.

4) Remove the four plastic bolts underlying the metal trim pieces at the base of the 'C' pillar using a Phillips head screwdriver. Easy.

Install the RTS:

1) Using the hardware supplied in the kit, install the two black metal fixtures to the 'A' pillar in the same location you removed the two black plastic shims. Use the appropriate new Torx bolts supplied in the kit. They are sized app. the same as the ones you removed but are SS and have a flat (not conical) base. This is not such an easy operation unless you have four hands. Patience.

2) Using the hardware supplied in the kit, install the two black metal fixtures to the base of the 'C' pillar using the four longer Torx head bolts supplied. These bolts screw into the four holes where the plastic bolts were originally installed.

3) Once the fixtures are in place, it's merely a matter of constructing the frame pieces (side and cross members) and then installing them onto the fixtures using the app. bolts supplied in the kit.

4) The frame is held onto the 'A' pillar with two allen head bolts and onto the 'C' pillar with the locking devices using the coded key in the kit.

5) That's it other than installing the bike, kayak, etc. holders to the frame which is easy.

Total time to install = app. 1.0 to 1.5 hours (or less if you are mechanically inclined).

Hope this helps. E-mail me if you need additonal assistance. Jeff ('98 986 and '99 996)

Some RTS Tips That *Aren't* in the Instructions (very long)

I have and use the RTS regularly, installing and removing it at least 2 times a week. It works *great* and only takes 10 minutes to install and 10 to remove once you get it down. Here are some things I've learned. As always you are responsible for determining the safety and applicability of these tips to your own situation.

I recommend leaving the A-pillar attachment pieces on the car permanently. It is too difficult to attach and remove them each time. After you install them, pour some water in the area to be sure the seals are positioned correctly and aren't leaking.

Ditch the Y-shaped torx/allen driver and replace it with regular screwdriver-shaped drivers. These are much easier to use than that awkward Y-shaped one that comes with the RTS.

The male piece that fits on the end of an allen driver to attach the side pieces at the B-pillar will keep falling off that allen driver while you are trying to use it. The solution is to epoxy it to an allen driver so it becomes its own tool.

The 4 bolts that hold the RTS crosspieces (that go across the width of the car) are hard to line up once the crosspieces are on the car. To do it easily, lay the crosspieces on your workbench so the ends are hanging off the edges, and then drop the bolts in from above. Then take the crosspiece with the bolts hanging down and position it on the RTS sidepieces (which at this point are installed on the car). Reverse the process when removing the RTS; that is, loosen the bolts and remove the crosspiece from the car while the bolts hang down through it.

The bolts mentioned above come with washers that are almost impossible to install. They keep falling off as you try to insert the bolts. So, I don't use the washers. They seem to serve no useful purpose and my RTS works fine so far without them.

It is *very* easy to nick your car's paint when working with so many tools and screws. The RTS has cardboard shielding pieces to help prevent this from happening. USE THEM! I also recommend using masking tape to protect the paint until you get good at installing the RTS. After you get the hang of it you shouldn't need the masking tape but until you get proficient there is a likelihood of dropping tools, bolts, etc. onto your car and scratching your paint. Don't use any other type of tape besides masking tape specifically designed for use with paint.

The RTS bolts are steel and, except for the A-pillar piece, the rest of the RTS is aluminum. When screwing hard steel into soft aluminum, be careful not to strip the threads. Make sure the threads are clean and the bolts are lined up properly. If you encounter any unusual resistance stop and verify that you aren't cross threading anything.

The RTS is *very* loud when used with the softtop, even at moderate speeds. At freeway speeds in windy conditions, it can be almost deafening. The solution is the hardtop. With the hardtop on the RTS is virtually silent. Anyone who will use the RTS on long trips should consider getting the hardtop. For short trips it's not necessary because you won't be in the car that long.

One last caution. The RTS is frustrating until you get the hang of it. The first few times it may take you an hour to put it on and almost that to remove it. DON'T GIVE UP! With a little practice it becomes very easy and you will be able to do it in just a few minutes. The RTS is one of the coolest Boxster options and it really adds to the car's usefulness. I wouldn't be without mine.

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